The title might suggest I’m about to share a witchcraft tale, but that’s far from the truth. This travel experience isn’t about religion or witchcraft; rather, it offers a glimpse into the spiritual side of life.

Some may judge this perspective, but I understand. Society often teaches us to see the world in black and white—you’re either religious or an atheist, with no middle ground. However, I stand in the in-between. “I am neither religious nor an atheist, but deeply spiritual.” This statement often meets disapproval from many adults, though thankfully, my family is an exception. They’ve witnessed my spiritual journey and, despite being religious themselves, they respect my unique worldview. Sometimes, they’re even intimidated by the way I connect with nature and the universe.

When you arise in the morning think of what a privilege it is to be alive, to think, to enjoy, to love. 

Marcus Aurelius

The Spiritual Pilgrimage: Connecting with the Divine

I always admire the way people belonging to every religion travel by foot to their holy destination to show their unfathomable love for their god, all around the world. Whether it is in Spain i.e. “Way of St James” (Camino de Santiago) , where the pilgrims end their walk at Santiago de Compostela or people who take a spiritual journey for Sabari Mala or they way people who have Haji as their destination of a lifetime. Travelling with a group of people or should I say a group of strangers with similar wave of thoughts or with a similar destination. What a beautiful thing it is?! As I was thinking about it, my thoughts naturally drift to Tiruvannamalai, a place where thousands walk around the sacred hill under the light of the full moon.

My father has been travelling for years to Tiruvannamalai every full moon day. We call those times Pournami, where people from all the cities, towns and villages gather to walk around that hill(Girivalam). I have been there not as often as my father. But 3 important moments of my life. The first is when I was a kid who knows nothing about religion or spirituality. The second time is when I was trying to figure out the difference between religion and spirituality. The last time I went there, I knew what it is to be spiritual.

A Memorable Tiruvannamalai Journey: From Chaos to Serenity

The last time I went there was in April 2019. The journey usually starts with a bus stop it’s either from Perungalathur or CMBT bus stop. My first time is from Perungalathur, there wasn’t much brawl while getting on the bus. During the second time, it’s the day before my 12th result(2014) we went in a car with my dad’s friends.

Last time, it was my dad, brother and me. We went to the metro, got down on the CMBT bus stand and waited for the bus. It was such a pain. People ran like they were in the Olympics, pushed each other like they were playing Rugby and it was almost like a war.  For what? To get on the bus. And it was Chitra Pournami (That’s one special type of Pournami).

I really hate to get into a fight. But sadly, I did. We were beaten to a pulp, every one of us when we were trying to get on the bus. I got a huge blow in my stomach while squirming through the crowd. There is nothing to be relieved about it even after finally getting a seat to sit

To make things worse, the bus driver and conductor wasn’t back for an hour. There was a huge cuss. People were blabbering and cursing whenever the bus which came after ours left before ours. But once the bus started, it didn’t stop anywhere so we reached there earlier than we thought. It took 3hr 30min approx from CMBT.

I really love travelling to Tiruvannamalai by Bus. Despite the rough beginning, I enjoy traveling to Tiruvannamalai by bus. We stock up on snacks—milkshakes, fruits, nuts, and chips—before setting off. While my dad and brother doze off, I sit by the window, watching the world go by, listening to snippets of conversations around me. Not deliberately… but, you know.

The Scenic Route To Tiruvannamalai: A Feast for the Eyes and Soul

The road to Tiruvannamalai takes you along places with beautiful greenery, scenery and villages. My favorite is the Gingee fort (I am gonna visit it some days). There is also this one village I can’t forget, with houses all so similar. The designs… you immediately knew that village has only one architect who manages the construction of all the houses. In one village there will be houses painted in only blue or pink. Whereas in another village there are houses filled with all indigenous flowers in the front yard. That makes the tiny hut type houses look so grandeur. These sights, combined with the tranquility of the journey, are what make this trip so special while I was quietly sipping the avin milkshake.

During my first visit, I didn’t notice these details. I was too busy chatting with a lady I was seated next to—a girls’ hostel warden from SRM College. That’s one of the things I love about traveling; you can have meaningful conversations with strangers, free from judgment. Though I’m quiet and shy, I enjoy talking to people I meet on my travels and observing life in crowded places. FYI, I won’t stalk or pickpocket people. I just stop with the observing part.

The Tiruvannamalai Spiritual Walk: Food for the Body and Soul

From the bus stop, we walked a short distance to a small South Indian restaurant, where I had tea and some delicious parotta and kurma. These days, I’m more conscious of what I eat, especially due to health concerns. But on this journey, food is as much a part of the experience as the walk itself.

The reason I bring in about food during a talk about a walk is that the best thing about this walk is food too.

As the moon rises, so do the pilgrims, and what starts as a few walkers quickly becomes thousands. The streets are lined with vendors selling fruits, refreshing sodas, steamed corn, herbal teas, and other delights. My personal favorite? Lime Goli soda. It’s a blessing during the 14 km walk, along with the many other treats that make this journey unique. Thanks to those people who sell them at various points during the walk. Usually, I end the walk with ice cream.

The Power of Community: Finding Strength in Numbers

Let’s get to the next side of this travel chapter. Previously it was just the locals of Tiruvannamalai and the people from near by villages who used to go around the hill during Pournami and religion specific auspicious day. Not just that, for locals of Tiruvannamalai, if there is a death or if there is a marriage once all the formalities done the entire family have a practice of walking around the hill (heard from one of the locals). But now, people from nearby states – Karnataka & Andhra has also started practicing Girivalam these days causing too much crowd.

When thousands of individuals and families walked around the hill praising their lord, singing songs and chanting praises, I felt humbled by the presence of the hills.

If human minds give power to something, I can sense the powerful embodiment in the centre of our walk- mother nature in the form of a hill. Especially as she glistens through the moonlight, as the breeze that passes through the gap of the hills let the sweats disappear once in a while. You can feel the energy of people and nature entering into your mind, body and soul.

When I was a kid, completing the 14 km walk felt like an immense challenge. I struggled with weak legs, blisters, and overwhelming pain, causing a bit of chaos by the end. But now, when I could able to cover the 14KM so easily, I realize how much I’ve grown since then. Even if you feel like your battery is down, people around you spread sufficient energy and also the incense aroma lift your mood up. There was a variety of people over there. Happy families, religious families, group of fitness freaks, couples, newly married, old people and uncle club vs aunty club. You can see a lot of people from abroad.

Reflecting on Change: Post-Covid Realities

During Covid-19, events like these felt like a distant memory. The crowded streets, the lively festivals—so much has been halted with no clear end in sight. I wondered how the local vendors who relied on these gatherings are managing and how the families who once found joy in these communal walks are coping now.

Embracing Spirituality Beyond Boundaries

I admire how all religions eventually converge at the point of spirituality. For me, nature has always been my solace and priority—a true pantheist at heart. I wouldn’t call myself an atheist, though I went through that phase during a severe existential crisis. My turning point came when, despite medical treatments, I realized that prayers and the collective belief of people played a crucial role in my recovery. Now, I hold a strong belief in the power of human connection, prayer, and the love people have for their gods, all while developing a deep connection with nature and the universe during my healing journey. These unexplainable moments have shaped my spiritual path.

“Our task must be to free ourselves by widening our circle of compassion to embrace all living creatures and the whole of nature and its beauty.”

~ Albert Einstein

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